Windmills

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Originally uploaded by Michael Jones.

He was buried deep when he felt the turbulence around his right foot. The sheet of blue green fell in front and to the right of him as the opposing surface raced up on the left. There was an opening straight ahead that he raced for. That's the problem with the green room. You rarely enjoy it while you're there since you are always trying to escape. This is especially true when you’re suspended only 3 feet above a solid razor sharp surface. Daylight came into view only to reveal the wall curving in towards the shore and the curtain falling in front of his new opening. He knew it was closing in from behind as well. This time the opening at the end of the tunnel was large but it was a long way off and it was closing. He lifted his arm out of the water and rapidly alternated his position slightly to increase his speed. He made it to the opening just as the white foam obscured any path to escape. He could imagine the disappointed groans from the local boys on the cliff. He knew the cost of getting caught in the collapsing cave. This wave was triple overhead when he took off on it. It was big and steep at Windmills and even though it was crowded only one rider was paddling for a wave at a time while the rest scrambled up the face to avoid getting thrown over. The drop was vertical and the takeoff contained a moment of uncertainty when he could have just as easily gone over the falls. The wave retained all of its power but it was concentrated in this small room that was feeling more and more claustrophobic by the second. The collapse would hurt. At best knock the wind out of him and at worst drag him across the reef while he tried to find a way back to the surface. He reached down to grab the nose of his board to attempt an escape through the back of the wave. That'€™s when he heard the hissing. The wave was collapsing behind him and like a freight train the compressed mist was approaching, ready to push him through the recently collapsed exit. He flew out of the barrel and as the wave collapsed behind he coasted into the channel. He heard the boys and girls on the cliff hoot their joy and disbelief. He outstretched both of his arms towards the sky and gave the crowd the finger with both hands. He felt they deserved that much. He thought about paddling in. Best ride of the day. Can’t get any better then that. He flopped down on his board and paddled out scratching over the face of the last wave of the set.